Tomato

Family: Solanaceae

Genus: Lycopersicon

Species: esculentum

History

Tomatoes are native to the Andes and were first cultivated by the Aztecs. Spaniards brought them to Europe in the 16th century, where they were initially grown as ornamentals. Their name comes from the Nahuatl word 'tomatl'. Tomatoes arrived in Australia in the 1800s and have since become the nation's most beloved home-grown crop.

Sowing Calendar

Best Months to Plant – Tomato
Climate ZoneJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Cool/Mountain
Temperate
Arid
Subtropical
Tropical
Cool/Mountain – Tomato
MethodJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Start in trays
Plant out transplants
Direct sow
Temperate – Tomato
MethodJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Start in trays
Plant out transplants
Direct sow
Arid – Tomato
MethodJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Start in trays
Plant out transplants
Direct sow
Subtropical – Tomato
MethodJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Start in trays
Plant out transplants
Direct sow
Tropical – Tomato
MethodJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Start in trays
Plant out transplants
Direct sow

Where to Plant

Shady Spots & Herb Gardens

Shady Spots & Herb Gardens
• Areas receiving dappled or indirect sunlight, often near trees or buildings
• Best for shade-tolerant herbs like mint, parsley, or greens like spinach
• Helps prevent sun stress and conserves moisture
• Often used in cooler corners of the garden

Raised Garden Beds

Raised Garden Beds
• Enclosed garden beds elevated above ground level
• Offer excellent drainage and warmer soil conditions
• Reduce bending and make gardening easier for mobility-restricted gardeners
• Ideal for most vegetables, flowers, and herbs

Containers & Pots

Containers & Pots
• Portable planting vessels suited for patios, balconies, and small areas
• Provide complete control over soil composition and drainage
• Great for herbs, greens, compact vegetables, or ornamental plants
• Allow plants to be moved to follow sun, shade, or seasonal conditions

In-Ground Garden Beds

In-Ground Garden Beds
• Traditional garden beds dug directly into the soil
• Suitable for deep-rooted crops and long-term plantings
• Offers natural soil ecology and drainage benefits
• Requires proper soil preparation and weed management

Pre-treatment

None Identified

There are no pre treatments required for germination.

Sowing Method

Start in Trays

• Fill seed trays or punnets with quality seed-raising mix
• Sow seeds at the correct depth—refer to seed packet for guidance
• Place trays in a warm, sheltered location with good light
• Mist or bottom-water to avoid disturbing small seeds
• Transplant seedlings once they develop 2–4 true leaves

Watering

Medium

• Benefits from regular watering, especially during active growth or flowering
• Soil should remain moist but not soggy—allow topsoil to dry slightly between waterings
• Ideal for most vegetables, herbs, and flowering annuals
• More frequent watering may be needed during hot or windy weather
• A layer of mulch can reduce water loss and improve consistency

Fertilisation

Frost

Frost Tender

These plants are sensitive to frost and should be sown after the last frost or grown in protected conditions.

Maintenance and Harvesting

Tomatoes require staking or caging and regular pruning of laterals for larger fruit. Water deeply and consistently. Remove lower leaves as the plant matures to prevent disease.

Pests and Diseases

Aphids

Aphids are tiny, soft-bodied insects that cluster on new growth and the undersides of leaves. They suck sap from plants, causing leaves to curl, yellow or become distorted. As they feed, they excrete sticky honeydew that encourages sooty mould, and colonies can build quickly in warm weather.

Start with organic controls: blast colonies off with a firm jet of water, encourage beneficial insects like ladybirds and lacewings, and spray neem oil or insecticidal soap to disrupt feeding. Keep plants well watered and avoid excess nitrogen that promotes soft growth. If pressure remains high, selective chemical sprays can be used sparingly, taking care to protect pollinators and beneficials.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew appears as a white, talc‑like coating on leaves and stems. It thrives in warm days, cool nights, and still air, and can weaken plants by reducing photosynthesis, leading to yellowing and early leaf drop.

Prune for airflow, avoid overhead watering, and remove badly affected foliage. Organic sprays such as milk solution, potassium bicarbonate, sulfur, or neem help suppress outbreaks. Chemical fungicides are effective when started early, but use sparingly to preserve beneficial organisms.

Two-spotted spider mites

Two‑spotted spider mites are tiny sap‑suckers that stipple leaves, causing a speckled, yellow look and fine webbing—worst in hot, dry conditions. Unchecked, plants can defoliate.

Increase humidity around plants, hose undersides of leaves, and release or encourage predatory mites. Neem and horticultural oils suppress populations organically. Miticides exist for heavy outbreaks; rotate actives to reduce resistance.

Thrips

Thrips are slender insects that rasp and suck plant tissues, leaving silvery streaks and distorted growth on leaves and flowers. They can also transmit plant viruses.

Use blue or yellow sticky traps to monitor and reduce numbers, weed around beds, and encourage beneficials like minute pirate bugs. Neem oil and insecticidal soap offer organic suppression. If needed, use registered insecticides and rotate modes of action to avoid resistance.

Whiteflies

Whiteflies can affect plant health and yields in home gardens. Typical symptoms include slowed growth, discolouration, and reduced productivity, often triggered by weather, nutrition, or cultural conditions.

Start with cultural fixes: rotate crops, improve soil with compost, water consistently, and choose resistant varieties. Organic sprays or amendments can reduce severity; chemical options are a last resort and should be used carefully and in accordance with labels.

Root-knot nematodes

Root-knot nematodes can affect plant health and yields in home gardens. Typical symptoms include slowed growth, discolouration, and reduced productivity, often triggered by weather, nutrition, or cultural conditions.

Start with cultural fixes: rotate crops, improve soil with compost, water consistently, and choose resistant varieties. Organic sprays or amendments can reduce severity; chemical options are a last resort and should be used carefully and in accordance with labels.

Early blight (Alternaria)

Early blight (Alternaria) can affect plant health and yields in home gardens. Typical symptoms include slowed growth, discolouration, and reduced productivity, often triggered by weather, nutrition, or cultural conditions.

Start with cultural fixes: rotate crops, improve soil with compost, water consistently, and choose resistant varieties. Organic sprays or amendments can reduce severity; chemical options are a last resort and should be used carefully and in accordance with labels.

Blossom end rot (calcium/irregular watering)

Blossom end rot shows as a sunken, leathery black patch at the blossom end of tomatoes, capsicums, and squash. It’s a physiological disorder linked to inconsistent watering and poor calcium movement in the plant, not a pathogen.

Keep soil moisture even with deep, regular watering and mulch; avoid swings between dry and saturated. Do not over‑fertilise with nitrogen. Calcium sprays may help new fruit, but consistency in watering is the main fix.

Broad / russet mites

Two‑spotted spider mites are tiny sap‑suckers that stipple leaves, causing a speckled, yellow look and fine webbing—worst in hot, dry conditions. Unchecked, plants can defoliate.

Increase humidity around plants, hose undersides of leaves, and release or encourage predatory mites. Neem and horticultural oils suppress populations organically. Miticides exist for heavy outbreaks; rotate actives to reduce resistance.

Late blight (Phytophthora)

Late blight (Phytophthora) can affect plant health and yields in home gardens. Typical symptoms include slowed growth, discolouration, and reduced productivity, often triggered by weather, nutrition, or cultural conditions.

Start with cultural fixes: rotate crops, improve soil with compost, water consistently, and choose resistant varieties. Organic sprays or amendments can reduce severity; chemical options are a last resort and should be used carefully and in accordance with labels.

Growing Tips

• Tomato is prone to blossom drop in heat/cold or from stress. Good cultural practices such as timely sowing, consistent care, and soil preparation can help manage this.
• Tomato can suffer from cracking with irregular watering. Consistent watering and use of mulch will help reduce this problem.
• Tomato is prone to blossom end rot from calcium/irregular moisture. Good cultural practices such as timely sowing, consistent care, and soil preparation can help manage this.

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